How fast does hair grow? Experts break down the facts (and the fixes)

Whether you’re in the process of growing out a pixie cut or just want to add some extra length to your mane, growing your hair can be a frustrating process. Sometimes, it feels as though you’re just stuck in purgatory, with no noticeable change happening, and wondering: how fast does hair grow, really? But according to Anabel Kingsley, brand president and trichologist at Philip Kingsley, there are a few natural ways to maintain a healthy and consistent hair growth cycle – and it starts with understanding how it all works.

The four phases of hair growth

The hair growth cycle can be divided into four key phases: anagen, catogen, telogen and exogen.

Anagen (growth phase)

“It occurs when the cells in the root of your hair are most rapidly dividing, so more new hair is formed,” shares Kingsley. “During the anagen phase, your hair grows around half an inch a month – this lasts an average of three to five years, reaching around 18 to 30 inches.”

Catogen (transition phase)

This phase can last approximately 10 days. “This signals the end of active hair growth, cutting individual hairs off from the blood supply and the cells that produce new hair,” Kingsley adds. “Approximately three per cent of your hairs are in this stage at any given time.”

Telogen (resting phase)

“Here, strands remain in their follicles but are not actively growing – an estimated of 10 to 15 per cent of your hairs are in the telogen phase at any given time,” Kingsley explains. “This period lasts approximately three months.”

Exogen (hair fall)

Exogen is the final stage of the hair growth cycle: “This is when individual hair strands are released from their follicles and fall out.”

Which factors affect hair growth?

Before you start Googling ‘how fast does hair grow’ and make your plan of action, you need to understand what’s at play internally. “Internal factors that can affect hair growth from the follicle are hormonal imbalances, illness, nutritional deficiencies or genetics,” Kingsley shares. “External factors such as styling habits and the frequency of shampooing, along with environmental factors such as hard water and sun exposure, can all contribute to brittle hair and breakage at the ends.”

Heat styling without adequate care can also stunt the growth of hair, she says. “Always use heat protection and alternate weekly pre-shampoo treatments between a deep conditioning mask and bond repair treatment, while minimising the use of heat where possible.”

What causes hair loss?

“Hair loss can happen for many different reasons and it is important to identify the correct type of hair loss in order to resolve it with the correct remedy,” Kingsley explains. “For example, if your hair loss is due to a genetic predisposition such as female or male pattern baldness, a nutritional supplement may help.” However, there are so many different medical treatments and solutions available to tackle this issue. “I’d always recommend seeing a trichologist for a proper diagnosis.”

Is it possible to speed up your hair growth cycle?

Your hair growth cycle cannot be “sped up” as such, but it can be optimised. “I would often recommend a quality hair supplement to boost the essential nutritional levels required for hair health, so that your hair has what it needs to grow,” explains Kingsley.

Adding the use of topical scalp drops can also help to minimise the rate of hair shedding, she says. “Tackling breakage can make a huge difference to hair growth and achieving length – introducing a deep-conditioning treatment along with a bond repair treatment will help to repair and prevent dryness and damage, which can lead to split ends.”

How stress affects hair growth

Fixating on whether your hair is growing fast enough – or even growing at all – will not help the process. In fact, stress can actually contribute to making the problem worse if you are experiencing hair thinning or a stunted growth cycle. The good news is that simple, practical steps can be taken to help boost the strength, health and length of your hair. According to Kingsley, “optimising your hair and scalp health will in turn support hair growth”. Think specialised scalp serums, switching to a softer hairbrush, and incorporating the occasional salt-scrub scalp massage into your routine.

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