Barrel-leg jeans are a new staple – here’s how to style them

Barrel leg jeans AKA horseshoe jeans AKA banana jeans – whatever you want to call them – I’ll admit, I never thought these jeans would stick. With their awkward bowlegged silhouette, curving outward from the thigh before tapering inwards at the ankle, they initially felt like too much of a detour from the wide-leg and cigarette styles we know and trust. But fashion has a habit of favouring the brave, and the moment these bulbous trousers strode down Pieter Mulier’s Alaïa autumn/winter 2023 runway, people took notice.

Just a matter of months later came the return of Phoebe Philo’s long-awaited namesake label, which imbued the style with her signature brand of quiet, architectural cool. If Alaïa sparked the match that lit the fire, Philo poured fuel on it – and thus, a new denim hero was born.

Alaïa autumn/winter 2023.

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Since then, the barrel-leg jeans have gone from curious newcomer to a bona fide wardrobe staple. Retailers have responded accordingly: nowadays, you’d be hard-pressed not to find a barrel-leg option in any denim line-up. Loewe, Toteme, Agolde, Citizens of Humanity and Levi’s all offer versions, while on the high street, Cos, Arket, Mango and Reformation have also jumped on the bandwagon. Sienna Miller is a big fan, so much so that she included a pair in her sell-out collaboration with M&S last year.

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Despite their sculptural look, styling the barrel leg isn’t as complicated as it may seem. In fact, the exaggerated shape does most of the heavy lifting, which means the rest of your outfit can stay minimal and streamlined. The recent runways provided plentiful inspiration: Mulier’s Resort collection featured a classic pair in washed blue, styled with a double-breasted blazer and pointed boots, while Stella McCartney paired her take with peplum white shirting, to create an interesting overall shape.

A couple of other big questions surrounding barrel-leg jeans – second only to “can I pull these off?” – is what length to choose, and which shoes won’t look swallowed, stumpy or strangely disproportionate beneath the curved silhouette. Ankle-length versions highlight the taper and feel sculptural, which are great for showing off a standout shoe, while full-length styles offer a more slouchy, relaxed feel. When the hems pool slightly over the shoe, they feel intentionally oversized.

Whether you prefer polished tailoring or a more relaxed off-duty formula, the barrel leg is about to enter your daily rotation. Here are six ways to style them this winter.