Can lactic acid replace retinoids for sensitive skin? Dermatologists weigh in

Very few things come close to the frustration you feel from doing everything right with retinoids and still ending up with a tight, stinging face. You ease in, you buffer with moisturiser, you follow the rules and your skin responds with redness, flaking and resistance. For anyone with eczema, dryness, rosacea or a naturally reactive barrier, the gold standard of anti-ageing can start to feel more punishing than helpful. That’s usually the point at which lactic acid becomes interesting as a gentler way to resurface, hydrate and soften fine lines without pushing your skin past its limit.

It’s technically an exfoliating acid, but it also behaves like a humectant. It’s billed as “gentle” so often that you’d be forgiven for wondering: could it actually be a softer stand-in for retinoids if your skin refuses to cooperate?

“Lactic acid gently dissolves dead cells and boosts natural moisturising factors,” explains Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, celebrity dermatologist and founder of Isaac Luxe. “This makes it ideal for sensitive skin. Unlike many retinoids or stronger acids that can trigger inflammation, lactic acid can support cell turnover without disrupting the barrier thereby improving radiance, texture and early fine lines.”

Dr Yash Mehta, facial plastic surgeon and founder of ACSC, breaks down why it often behaves better on touchy skin. “Lactic acid has a larger molecular size than some other AHAs, so it penetrates more slowly and stays more superficial,” he says. “That slower action reduces the risk of irritation, redness or barrier disruption.”

Can lactic acid really replace your retinoid?

“Lactic acid can improve texture, tone and surface signs of ageing like fine lines, uneven tone and dullness by gently exfoliating dead cells and promoting turnover,” says Dr Mehta. “You won’t get dramatic, prescription-level results but you do get smoother, brighter, more even skin over time.”

Dr Gupta agrees, “Consistent use doesn’t give the same drastic transformation as retinoids, but it provides gentle, steady resurfacing that improves plumpness, clarity and overall skin quality. It’s a good option for those who simply cannot tolerate stronger actives.”

Short answer: it can’t fully replicate everything a retinoid does. Retinoids work on deeper receptors in the skin and have the strongest evidence for collagen stimulation and long-term wrinkle reduction but if you cannot tolerate them at all, lactic acid is still far from a consolation prize.

Where lactic acid really shines

For those with eczema or a chronically compromised barrier, the word “acid” can be intimidating. Dermatologist Dr Prachi Bodkhe from Envi Aesthetics is cautious but optimistic, “In people with eczema, lactic acid can be used, but only in low strengths and in cream or lotion bases,” she says. “On actively inflamed or broken skin, it’s best avoided until the barrier recovers.”

She also sees clear differences in how formulas behave in real life. “Lotions are usually the best tolerated because they buffer the acid with emollients. Serums tend to feel stronger, while toners can sting if the barrier is even mildly compromised.”