Bhumi Pednekar’s intricate khinkaab lehenga came from a rare Varanasi brocade

For her latest release, Mere Husband Ki Biwi, Bhumi Pednekar and her stylist Meagan Concessio are traversing the world of delectably bohemian lehengas. Bhumi Pednekar’s latest offering is a richly woven brocade lehenga and a zardozi hasli blouse from revivalist brand Pankaj S. Heritage.

The lehenga is unlike a typical Banarasi brocade and is instead crafted out of khinkaab, one of the most opulent variations of brocade to come out of Varanasi. Historically, the thick khinkaab, which translates to ‘a fabric so rich that it is devoid of any air’, was woven out of gold and silver zari threads, often featuring traditional hunting scenes or ‘shikargah’, jaals, peacocks and Mughal themes to give what is termed as ‘vana shringharam’ or the beauty of wilderness.

The decadently rich ensemble features symmetrical panels replete with forest-inspired motifs, such as deers, elephants and peacocks, all set in a palette of delicate filigree. The loop-back blouse is an heirloom statement in itself. Think jewel techniques central to Indian craftsmanship—jadau, Bikaneri meenakari known for its vibrant enamel work, and kundan—brought together to form a kaleidoscopic hasli with the bottle green blouse as its canvas.

The hasli, with its roots in South India, is renowned for its choker-like qualities worn as a layering anchor or on its own. For Pednekar, Concessio went the extra mile, further layering the hasli with a jadau and piroi pearl choker from Amrapali and Bugadi ear-cuffs, traditionally worn by the Hindu communities of Maharashtra, from the Olio Stories.