Though it took an American drag queen to unleash the maximalism in me, India has always had a dyed-in-the-wool affinity for maximalism. Think heavily embroidered charhvan juttis from the Mughal era, intricately wrought gold kanpashas (large ear studs) from Bengal or the revived omnipresence of the Punjabi parandi (hair ornament). Elaborate accents infused in clothing and accessories have survived the test of time and escaped bridal trousseaus and festive occasions of late to make their way into everyday closets. From Bollywood celebrities like Ranveer Singh, who recently told me how much he loves wearing his grandmother’s diamonds with his silk shirts, to my friend who pairs her denims with her father’s chikankari kurtas, we are finding our way back to rich adornments. But it’s not just desis who are eager to rebuild a maximalist vision for the future.
Ornate bag charms and embellished sneaker heels are adventuring from international runways to the streets. Swipe through your favourite fashion editorials and style blogs and you’ll find almost everyone is on board with piling gold jewellery on top of antique silver or decorating their everyday neutrals with audacious brooches. Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino, bathed in polka dots, brocade and ruffles galore, was another sign that the dominion of quiet luxury is diminishing. Recall Marc Jacobs’s autumn 2024-25 collection featuring structured jackets dunked in assorted buttons and Prada’s BDSM details, trompe l’oeil belts and UFO-shaped straw visors (thank you, Raf Simons) in its spring/summer 2025 ready-to-wear show, and it is safe to say that this tide will continue to swell.
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