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The morning after the first time I had sex with Mike, I noticed a pair of heart-shaped glasses abandoned on a Brooklyn sidewalk on my walk home. They were glittery and pink, a novelty trinket from a birthday or bachelorette party. The arms of the glasses had snapped off, and the lenses popped out, but the heart-shaped frames were still intact. At the time, it felt like foreshadowing—but of love or future heartbreak, I wasn’t sure. I took a photo and posted it to Instagram without context. (It was 2014, and that’s what we did back then.)

Over a decade later now, if I scroll far back enough, I can still see that photo of sunglasses and remember that first night with Mike—the floral Urban Outfitters miniskirt I was wearing, the cigarettes-and-beer taste of his mouth, the summer humidity in the air, the way he slept curled up behind me. We were on and off and on and off for years. He was the first person I really fell hard for and the first person who left me truly heartbroken, crying on the subway at all hours and combing social media late at night searching for hints of what he was doing in his life without me. Mike was a Sagittarius: adventurous, open-minded, playful, spontaneous and reluctant to commit to anything. Turns out I’m not so good with Sagittariuses, but I always fall for them.

Somehow, I always end up falling for the wrong zodiac signs. My dating history is filled with Sagittariuses and Aquariuses, which are both supposed to clash with my Scorpio self. (And although things might feel blissful at first, eventually the fall always comes.) Astrologers have explained why I’m drawn to them: My Moon, Venus and Mercury are in Sagittarius, so it tracks that I would feel a connection with the star sign, even if their noncommittal nature is at odds with my intense Scorpio Sun and stability-craving Virgo Rising. As for the aloof Aquarius: When paired with a Scorpio, the two form a harsh, tense square—the astrological term for a 90-degree angle, associated with conflict and challenge—which equates to both interpersonal tension and sexual tension.

For many years, my dating life followed a similar astrological pattern. After Mike, there was Chris, the sweet Aquarius photographer who introduced me to his friends on our second date and eventually stopped making time for me one-on-one. Stephen, a decade my senior, was next; he read all the same books as me but his hot-and-cold dating style outpaced our intellectual connection. One week he wanted to see me four days in a row, then not at all the next. He was an Aquarius too. My first date with David, a friend of a friend and another Sagittarius, lasted for hours, going from dive bar to dive bar and then to his friend’s picnic to my friend’s birthday party. We didn’t want the day together to end. But as the months went by, I realised I still wasn’t quite over that last Aquarius, and for once it was me who couldn’t commit. When, in my late twenties, I changed my dating app settings from “men” to “everyone,” I thought it would end my unlucky streak of falling for the wrong zodiac signs. But then came along Amanda, a Sagittarius who took me to her favourite spot by the waterfront and ghosted me after we hooked up.

There are certain fashion choices that our future selves will look back on and think: why? Enter the Mary Jane shoe as an unrelenting force to be reckoned with. Will it be a regrettable choice later? We’ll let time decide. As of now, it stays and how. Before we assess this new phenomenon, we must consider the pleather jeggings of the early 2010s. Or when people used to wear oversized T-shirts with big wide belts. Or during the Tumblr era, when everyone started dying their armpit hair. Some fashion choices are so specific to the time from whence they came that they should stay there, never to be revived again, a fashion fossil that must only be unearthed for strictly academic reasons.

This, I personally believe, is how our future selves will look back on the Mary Jane-ification of everything. You know what I’m talking about. All of our favourite shoes inexplicably transforming into Mary Janes: Ugg boots, Salomon trainers, and now… the Adidas Samba? The Mary Jane is like a virus, and it doesn’t appear to be slowing down. If we’re not careful, we’ll have Mary Jane wellies and Mary Jane crocs and Mary Jane hiking boots. Oh wait, all of those things already exist.

It doesn’t take a genius to work out how we got here. 2020s fashion has thus far been defined by ugly, hybrid-style footwear, and what could be more ugly and hybrid than a cut ’n’ pasted Mary Jane (they’re already a sinister shoe; what’s with the random hole? And why do they look like they’re for adult babies?). As my colleague Daniel Rodgers wrote of smart shoes being melted into sneakers, “the intersection of ugliness and cool has simply become… convention,” adding that this is “what happens when the convergent forces of meme culture and streetwear combine, producing silhouettes that simultaneously repel and draw people in.”

Edward Berthelot/Getty Images

Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images

It’s true: there’s something very online about the Mary Jane-ification of every shoe possible. I can already see the TikTok menswear heads in Adidas Samba MJs and ankle-grazing jorts come spring (hopefully with socks) and the “come with me to try the new viral blah blah” crowd in those fluffy Ugg Bea Marys. As with any ugly shoe, they’re also sort of designed to drum up discourse. The more “cursed” a shoe appears, the more the extremely online fashion crowd are likely to cop (lest we forget the summer of snoafers). It’s something we’ve all seen before.

Deepika Padukone is a busy woman. From being an actor to the face of many brands through endorsements and now a mother, Padukone has established herself as a global force. In Dubai for Cartier’s 25th anniversary celebrations, she made her first official red-carpet appearance as one of the French luxury brand’s ambassadors. Her choice of attire? An easy-breezy custom black maxi dress from JADE by Monica and Karishma.

Styled by Shaleena Nathani, the gown boasted a plunging sweetheart neckline that accentuated the actor’s décolletage, complemented by an off-the-shoulder design with full-length, voluminous sleeves gathered at the cuffs. The flowing silhouette cascaded to a floor-grazing hem, finished with delicate ruffles. Deepika Padukone accessorized with a striking Cartier necklace featuring a 63.76-carat diamond and matching diamond studs. The necklace‘s red, green and black color scheme is symbolic of the Maison.

Her beauty look featured feathered brows, a wash of shimmering gold eyeshadow, and a touch of drama with smokey eyes and winged eyeliner. The actor’s hair was styled in a sleek, side-parted twisted bun, finished with a chic black silk bow.

From Vogue‘s fashion-desk

“Make Deepika Padukone’s black Jade look your own by refining the silhouette—opt for a corseted bodice with a clean drop-waist or a sculpted column gown to create negative space around your statement neckpiece. Balance the drama with sharp, pointed-toe heels in patent or satin for a seamless extension of the look. Skip earrings and instead, cinch the waist with a slender belt in the same fabric as your dress,” guides Vogue India’s Associate fashion editor, Divya Balakrishnan.

Also read:

Deepika Padukone: “Why do I need to move with bag and baggage to have global impact?”

Deepika Padukone and Sonam Kapoor brought back bold lips in the best beauty looks of the week

Deepika Padukone flaunts her baby bump in a series of ensembles, including a sheer dress and pantsuit

Sulphur (the naturally occurring element known for its distinct scent) is also an age-old skincare ingredient. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and anti-fungal properties, it’s a particularly effective remedy for acne – gently exfoliating skin and unclogging pores, balancing oil production and minimising inflammation.

Globally, searches for sulphur skincare are up 82 per cent over the last 12 months, with people in the UK searching more than ever for sulphur soap, specifically. And it’s not just people with acne looking for the hardworking ingredient. For those with dermatitis or easily irritated skin, sulphur provides soothing relief by reducing itching and promoting healing. If that sounds like a saving grace, it is. Persistent scratching of irritated areas can break the skin further and promote infection. Calming the itch enough to leave the area alone can make a marked difference in the length and severity of flare-ups.

Here, we’ve detailed everything you need to know about the natural element and how to best use sulphur in your skincare routine.

What exactly is sulphur?

“Sulphur is a mineral that exists in nature and can be found in soil, plants, food and water,” says Andrea Craig, Murad UK education and training manager. It’s the fifth most prevalent element on the Earth’s surface, in fact.

However, the sulphur used in most skincare products, colloidal sulphur, is slightly different from its organic counterpart. “Unlike traditional sulphur, it’s engineered to have much smaller particles, boosting its potency and effectiveness as an active ingredient.” Does this mean that colloidal sulphur doesn’t smell quite as pungent as the raw element, then? “It does have a distinctive smell that some say resembles rotten eggs,” admits board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr Idriss Skincare, Shereene Idriss. “However, it works very effectively.”

With this smell in mind, many skincare products that contain sulphur are designed to be used as treatments or masks worn when you’re sleeping or otherwise at home. While sulphur soap is a thing, the wash-on, wash-off quality means you could layer an odour-nixing body lotion over the top. These skincare products might not smell as strong as the mineral found in volcanic rock, but it’s better to err on the side of caution before leaving the house.

Why is it so beneficial when used on acne/acne-prone skin?

“Sulphur is antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and has exfoliating properties,” describes Dr Idriss, and has been used for centuries to treat acne and blemishes. It works by helping to dry out excess oil (also known as sebum), unclogging pores and preventing the formation of pimples.” Excess sebum isn’t always the only reason for clogged pores, though. Dead skin cells not being efficiently sloughed off can cause congestion, inflammation and eventual breakouts. “It calms redness and inflammation, too, which is what makes it useful for sensitive or irritated skin.”

Are there any ingredients that sulphur shouldn’t be mixed with?

Avoid layering multiple sulphur-containing products on top of each other, say the experts. This can lead to excessive dryness and aggravate existing conditions. Instead, use the products as instructed and keep an eye out for flaking, irritated or overly tight feeling areas.

What other conditions can sulphur treat?

Because of its anti-inflammatory nature, sulphur is a good option for dermatitis, rosacea and psoriasis. Some studies have shown that topical sulphur application can be as effective as an antibiotic in treating rosacea. As of yet, there is not a scientific consensus on whether sulphur is a solution for eczema but anecdotal reports say that the soothing properties help to alleviate severe itching.

What ingredients does sulphur work best with?

There are three ingredients that Craig advises using alongside sulphur: salicylic acid, kaolin clay and Austrian peat extract. “Salicylic acid helps exfoliate rough and bumpy skin for a smoother texture, kaolin clay helps remove excess oil and shine, while Austrian peat extract – a hydration-replenishing extract ideal for acne-prone skin – helps reduce visible signs of redness and enhance removal of impurities without over-drying skin,” Craig emphasises.

The best sulphur products for acne, clogged pores and breakouts:

Malin + Goetz 10% Sulfur Paste

Murad Rapid Relief Sulfur Mask

Look Fantastic
₹ 4,400.00

Oskia Citylife Cleansing Concentrate

Osika Skincare
₹ 3,800.00

EradiKate™ Daily Foaming Cleanser

Kate Somerville
₹ 3,900.00

Dermalogica Deep Breakout Liquid Patch

Look Fantastic
₹ 3,500.00

Take Care 10% Sulphur Soap

This story first appeared on Vogue.uk.com

Also Read:

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Everything you need to know about non-comedogenic skincare and makeup

9 skincare ingredients you should absolutely avoid pairing together

My driver, Tshering Dorji

The true spirit of Bhutan reveals itself not just in the Black-Necked Crane Festival, but in the everyday life of its citizens too. I quickly develop an affinity for Suja, the butter tea which will soon become my companion through chilly mornings and long afternoons, and Ema Datshi, the beloved chilli-cheese dish that pairs perfectly with rice. Each meal reinforces the importance of connection to both the local ecology as well as to each other.

As I travel from valley to valley, the seamless blend of adventure and tradition deepens my connection to Bhutan. My guide, who happens to be a trained archer, insists that I try it at least once. Archery, Bhutan’s national sport, is not just a pastime but an expression of community spirit, and almost every village has a practising field. He takes me to a local match and what strikes me most is the sense of friendly competition, the verbal battles that unfold in a chorus of cheers and chants, and the intense focus of the players. It is a beautiful reflection of Bhutan’s communal culture, where every victory or defeat is shared.

You think you know your friends, but do you really know them? The most cunning zodiac signs are often those who you think you’ve got all figured out—until they are hurt so deeply that they turn into your own personal hell. These signs possess a sharp mind, strategic expertise and an uncanny ability to manipulate situations in their favour. Whether through charm, intelligence or secrecy, the most cunning zodiac signs know what they want… and exactly how to get it. Scrolls on to see if you’re on here:

Pisces

Move over, Joe Goldberg—a jilted Pisces redefines the highs and lows of the darker spectrum of emotions. Usually dreamy and playfully swaying with the wind, this sign can be the most lethal and obsessive, even a tad over the top when it comes to emotional neglect and letdowns resulting from their hopelessly romantic ways. On the flip side, threaten their loved ones and they are capable of planning the perfect murder.

Sagittarius

Who even needs Narcissa Malfoy when you have self-obsessed Sagittarians tripping on their own power and superiority? While they are super fun to be around, their constant need for dopamine hits and adrenaline rushes can make them seem ruthless and disconnected from reality. Sagittarians can really propel themselves into places of power and enjoy making others dance to their tunes—very consciously and disconcertingly.

Gemini

A Gemini’s innate intelligence, curiosity and playful demeanour can often be overtaken by a heightened sense of materialistic greed. Think Tony Stark and you’ve got their alter ego all figured out. Their need to escape conflict at any cost—even if it makes them seem fickle—is another dusty feather in their hat. However, absolutely nothing dampens the passionate love affair between a Gemini and their zest for life.

Leo

Their love for the limelight and always being right can tip them over to the other extreme, where they can come across as being too picky for their own good. This could leave them to only explore new fish in the sea, without any real connection to see them through the tough times. Robin Scherbatcky from How I Met Your Mother is the perfect example of a Leo who is vivacious, bold, initiating and daring, with a tinge of being commitmentphobic and self-absorbed.

Aries

They are with you… until they are not. Meet Aries—the fiery, feisty, impulsive, controlling and competitive zodiac sign that has Monica Geller written all over it. They can be fiercely loyal, empathetic and contemptuous all at once, plotting ways to prove you wrong. Their combustive energy usually makes them susceptible to temper tantrums and meltdowns. They don’t usually have the patience to plot elaborate schemes, but push them too far and they’ll have no trouble devoting all of their energy towards taking you down.

Virgo

If words could kill, Virgos would make great assassins. They know just when to strike, with a deep vengeance that would even put a Scorpio to shame. With elephant-like memories and the mental agility to bend rules, reality and words—perfect spell crafters, like Maleficent—a Virgo can leave you begging for mercy even when you aren’t at fault. If Inception were your reality, Virgos would be the ones with the skills to implant some nasty scars in your head.

Together designer, Giorgio Armani and photographer, Aldo Fallai changed the fashion photography landscape. The black and white photos inspired by art history and cinematic storytelling portrayed men and women through a modern lens. The clothing came alive through its surroundings. Now, they are bringing their collaboration of nearly three decades in the form of an exhibition at Mumbai’s Jio World Plaza Atrium from February 12th to March 9th. This also marks the opening of Giorgio Armani’s store opening in the Jio World Plaza, Mumbai today.

Ahead Vogue India exclusively spoke to the Florentine photographer about the artistic vision behind his iconic photographs.

VI: Your photography for Giorgio Armani has defined a certain era of style. Can you describe your approach to capturing the essence of Armani’s designs and the personalities of the people wearing them?

Aldo Fallai: I managed to capture the essence of both the creations and the people who wear them by starting from the reality that surrounds us. In a way, it’s a translation of reality, presenting an idealised version of the world around us. Visually, I interpreted this by softening certain aspects, making the women less overtly sexy, more curious and the men less stiff and more relaxed.

VI: The exhibit spans nearly three decades of your work with Giorgio Armani. What were some of the most significant creative challenges you faced during this time, and how did you overcome them?

AF: We faced many challenges throughout our long collaboration, most related to time. Between the show and the creation of the images, we had limited time but we were both tireless workers, never intimidated by the workload. On the contrary, we always took our work very seriously so the challenges were manageable. What truly made a difference, though, was the almost magical understanding between us. This proved essential in visually representing Armani’s artistic intentions. When I saw all the photos from the exhibition together, it took me back in time.

VI: Your work often draws inspiration from art history, including Tuscan Mannerism and Caravaggio. How do these influences manifest in your fashion photography?

AF: I was born in Florence and still live here. There’s no place I would rather be. As a proud Florentine, I live immersed in the history of art. I am captivated by it and reinterpret it in a modern light. But at its core, my approach follows a structure rooted in the late 16th century, where man is the centre of every composition, and light plays a crucial role. My use of the American shot, for example, is inspired by these principles.

For anyone seeking inspiration for traditional Indian attire, Madhuri Dixit Nene‘s Instagram feed is the place to go. From lehengas adorned with intricate embroidery to saris draped in varied styles, her wardrobe is a veritable treasure trove. Making her recent look no exception, she was seen donning a red blazer-style kurta paired with red sharara pants by Ritika Mirchandani. A signature style from the label, this particular outfit incorporated crystal bugles and delicate embroidery.

A golden potli bag from Doux Amour by Saahil Kapoor, silver stud earrings and a curated stack of rings on her fingers balanced her look. Madhuri Dixit Nene kept her hair simple and straight, and her makeup subtle, punctuated by a bold red lip.

From Vogue‘s fashion-desk

“Madhuri Dixit Nene is a vision in red. To re-think this bold statement look, stick to the red embellished blazer, but swap the Sharara pants for a structured mini skirt in a similar tonality or a red slip dress with the same beadwork. Keep the potli bag but wear your hair in a messy pony with big golden hoops and skyscraper strappy heels. Don’t be afraid to shift the focus to your fingers with a few oversized statement ring stacks,” guides Vogue India’s Associate fashion editor, Divya Balakrishnan.

Ritika Mirchandani’s creations have become a favourite amongst celebrities in recent times – scroll down to revisit some of these looks.

Then, be clear and honest about what you’re doing and why you no longer want to be a couple. Go with a line like, “I realised it’s best for me to not continue to date because I feel like we don’t communicate well” (or whatever your reason is). Try not to blame or criticise them—even if you really, really want to—because that’ll just make them feel defensive or angry, Giolitti-Wright says.

A quick tip: You want to avoid defending yourself or overexplaining where you’re coming from, she says. Even though you might assume being wordy offers more closure, it does the opposite—and often escalates into a full-blown heated convo or argument. “Engaging in a back and forth discussion does not promote finality, which is the purpose of the text to begin with,” Giolitti-Wright says. So a couple sentences will do.

After that, share your new boundaries. Be specific about what they can expect from you re: contact—let them know if you’re willing to keep talking or if you’d rather have space. Finally, end your message on a compassionate note—wish them well as genuinely as possible. A quick “I wish you all the best moving forward” will do the trick, says Giolitti-Wright.

You may also want to invite them to open up and weigh in, says Giolitti-Wright, like if you had a deep emotional connection or wish to remain friends. You can say, “Now that you know how I feel, I’d love to know what you’re feeling if you want to share.” On the other hand, if you had a short fling or are worried things could snowball into a not-so-fun text battle, you can probably skip this step.

And if you’re still unsure about what to say? Think about how you’d want someone to cut ties with you, says Dr. Cope, and, when in doubt, lead with compassion and empathy.

One last note: If you choose a text breakup out of fear for your safety, Dr. Cope suggests keeping a few caveats in mind. First, include only “as much detail as is needed to communicate that the relationship has ended, without disclosing personal details that may put [you] in further danger.” For example, “This relationship has hurt me. I do not want to see you again. If we see each other in public, I will not acknowledge you.” After that, she recommends going no contact—so don’t engage in further debate or keep tabs on them on social media. Lastly, don’t be afraid to reach out to domestic violence advocates or resources that can help in case things escalate.