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In addition to the pieces inside the Library, Chiuri and Swali, in collaboration with Italian musician Jovanotti, created three torans that hang at its entrance, welcoming visitors. The central toran is inspired by the musician’s global travels through 31 countries, while the two torans on either side draw inspiration from ancient musical notations preserved in the Vatican Library. “For us, the toran has always been a way of welcoming people into our homes,” states Swali. “In India, it is not only a symbol of hospitality but also an integral part of our architectural heritage. Through this prestigious exhibition at the Vatican Library, we wanted to celebrate this cultural bridge between the past, present and the future.”

En Route. © BIBLIOTECA APOSTOLICA VATICANA

Do the karigars working in the tree-filled compound in Byculla that houses the Chanakya School of Craft know how far their art has travelled—beyond Dior runways and into cultural spaces where Indian art has seldom gone? They do—and it means everything to them. “One of our artisans told me, ‘I may never leave India, but my hands will travel the world.’ I think that really encapsulates everything because for us, for them, craft is a movement, sure, but it’s also a passport to stories beyond borders and time.”

En Route opens to the public on February 15^th 2025 at Cortile del Belvedere, Città del Vaticano, and will be on view until December 20^th 2025.

Khushi Kapoor may have just coined a new fashion term–’dramatic elegance’, given her latest streak of thematic looks that are statement-worthy but also wearable. Leaning into the more couture side of themes, Kapoor’s latest little black dress is far from ordinary. Usually, an LBD is a sign of wardrobe exhaustion, worn to slowly self-startle out of a creative block of sorts. Kapoor, styled by Tanya Ghavri, exhibited otherwise through a sleek LBD from Vietnamese brand Montsand.

The dress is from the brand’s ‘La Pureza’ collection, centred around a narrative of ephemerality as well as the mythical udumbara flower said to bloom once every 3,000 years. The design ethos is one of the fleeting nature of beauty and how it can only be enjoyed momentarily before its transcendence. Beyond the esoteric vibe of the look, the main inspiration comes from Ghavri’s caption alluding to the Black Swan, further playing into the trope of transience.

The simple peplum-style dress was paired with tulle gloves featuring long dangling florals meant to be swayed and twirled around. Dainty diamond studs, and Louboutin pumps, along with a bouffant-style French knot, completed the trimmed-down classic appeal and made for an ideal soirée ensemble.

From Vogue‘s fashion desk:

“Khushi Kapoor’s Montsand black corset LBD, with its sculpted design and artistic gloves, is quite the statement. But to truly make it your own, take the sculptural elegance and twist it to fit your personality. The LBD gives you structure, so lean into that—add a piece that feels equally sharp, like a metallic or matte leather jacket with interesting lapels. Ditch the typical sleek pumps for something with more drama like a strappy metallic studded heel or boots. Let’s not forget the gloves, so opt for embroidered transparent black gloves that peek under your jacket to tie your look together,” says Vogue India’s Associate Fashion Editor, Divya Balakrishnan.

The haunting whistle of a single flute brought the historic Ganga Ram Mansion to life as Rano Usman unveiled fourteen timeless ensembles from her latest collection, ‘Kayee Chand’ (Many Moons). Three decades of work wove through the art and architecture of Lahore while it travelled to the Himalayas through Srinagar, Banaras, Lucknow and even the film studios of Bombay. As an ode to the history and grandeur of the subcontinent, Rano Usman—a revivalist at heart—recreated the ritual of sehra bandhi where the groom is adorned by his sisters before he sets off on horseback to bring his bride home. It’s in traditions like these that lies the ethos of Usman’s brand Rano’s Heirlooms.

The show was truly magical. The flute made way for the majestic dhols and a live choir that sang retrospective tunes of Ghorri (the songs women sing during a wedding procession). Nostalgia took over as the groom walked in under the protective embrace of an elaborately decorated canopy carried by the procession of girls, an interesting mix of models, dancers and friends for authenticity. “True beauty has to be authentic,” Rano laughed. “I’d like to see brides as they used to be before their wedding, with slicked-back braids and just a red lip for colour.”

Rano explained how every garment was sketched by hand before the crafting process began. She’d sit like a sculptor surrounded by her clay being the fabric, the embellishments and bring it all together bit by bit. One of her favourite pieces from the collection, she explained, was ‘Hema’. An almost icy blue lehnga paid tribute to the word for snow in Sanskrit, also referring to the goddess of snow as she rose from sun-kissed Himalayan peaks. Like Hema, all of her creations adapt more than twenty handcrafted techniques, taking over five hundred hours to complete.

“I was trained by a French nun at the Convent for ten years,” she smiled. “As I’ve grown older, I’ve strived for unmatched excellence that we learnt. It took me 25 years to perfect my embroidery and I did it with commitment, without shortcuts. We also worked for Italian designers for four years; learnt the craft there.”

Throughout history, designers have celebrated their muses in their designs and concepts. Think of Amanda Harlech for Karl Lagerfeld and Audrey Hepburn for Givenchy. In the Indian context, we can now associate Sodhi with Gupta, too. And while they’ve been mislabelled as husband and wife in popular media, the designer reveals that their relationship defies definition. “I am gay and she is straight, but we’ve been living together for 25 years. We met in high school and fell in love, so we decided to be each other’s primary life partners,” revealed Gupta.

Their connection not only speaks to unconventional forms of love but also serves as the root of their interspersed life-partner and designer-muse dynamics. On the personal front, after the incident, Gupta realised what it meant to be a true caregiver, “I would hold her hands while the dressing was done daily, it was the most painful and traumatic thing for her every day. She’s my twin flame, that’s the least I could do,” he added.

After countless prayers and spiritual healing sessions, the duo channelled their heart and physical ache into something creative on the professional side. “I’ve been in a state of shock and haven’t really had time to process anything because I’ve had to immediately dive back into work. But the thought process behind this collection and the response make it worth it. So many people reached out sharing their accidents and relating to the suffering, it’s much bigger than us now. We’ve become examples of hope,” he said.

Fresh off his show, Vogue India connected with the designer live from Paris and talked about everything between catharsis, crying and couture. Ahead, read excerpts from the interview.

Vogue India: Was there anything you were nervous about before the show?

Gaurav Gupta: Navki’s itching fits. Between the chaos of getting all the models ready, my focus was still on her comfort, so I had my best friends keep an eye on her. Since she has to wear compression garments at all times, we decided to only remove them and get her dressed ten minutes before everyone was seated including Megan Thee Stallion. Luckily, everything went amazingly right from the moment she stepped out.

VI: What was the energy like post-show backstage?

Was Sunday the ideal time for a massive industry award show—the Grammys 2025—in Los Angeles? Not necessarily, given the series of wildfires that devastated entire LA neighbourhoods were only just contained. That said, the fact that the city is still struggling to rebuild was reflected throughout the Grammys 2025, with host Trevor Noah and musicians from and associated with LA—including Billie Eilish, Lady Gaga and Bruno Mars—delivering energetic performances that didn’t feel mournful, so much as like tributes to the resilient spirit of Angelenos. (Chappell Roan’s rendition of her hit song ‘Pink Pony Club,’ with its refrain of “I’m going to keep on dancing,” felt particularly apropos.)

Indeed, there was plenty to love about Sunday night’s Grammys (and, of course, some less-than-perfect moments, but why dwell on those?). Below, find a roundup of everything you missed.

The Grammys’ spotlight on LA’s fire-affected small businesses

I, for one, am always thrilled to see Doja Cat—never more so than when she’s lending her star power to a commercial for a small business impacted by the LA wildfires. The Grammys’ commitment to spotlighting some of the city’s hardest-hit businesses felt like a genuine and tangible measure of support, and it didn’t go unappreciated. (Neither did Charlie Puth’s cameo in an ad for a local martial arts studio, for that matter.)

Sabrina Carpenter’s extremely theater-kid-energy performance

Photo: Getty Images

To ensure every look is truly valuable, Thália’s white satin ballerina flats are there to create the most seamless blend of exclusivity and quality. These handcrafted flats, featuring a soft satin finish, provide both comfort and sustainability, with the detachable grosgrain tie-up being the cherry on top. With a strong sense of commitment to ethical practices, Thália partners with One Tree Planted to plant a tree with every purchase, reinforcing their dedication to sustainability. Their every step aims to have a positive impact; and with vegan, cruelty-free products, they curate exclusive flats to help you embrace elegance this season, surrounded by love and positivity.

The key to your heart

In fashion, accessorising is the ultimate charm that brings your look together. With this in mind, One Less introduces Rafia Mini Tote—a versatile tote with a good mixture of style and sustainability. Their newest offer— ‘Custom corners by One Less’, helps you personalise your tote with your initials in vibrant colours and a signature smiley embroidery. Functionality and sustainability are key to the brand, and this tote makes you ever ready for any occasion—from basking under the sun to city outings with your friends. It balances thoughtful design with timeless style, making it a must-have accessory that never goes out of style.

A love that shines

“So instead of using dull colours that fencing cloths usually come in, my neighbours think this is a much more foolproof method,” says Khambe. Rural Maharashtra commonly depends on monsoon rains to grow rice. But recent interest in growing winter vegetables has led to a need to safeguard their crops in harsh weather conditions—where the farmers can’t be as vigilant. A repertoire of saris, from the closets of the women in Ramgad, is easily available. Khambe says, “They solve the purpose, and add some brightness too.”

Khambe has grown up and lived in this village all his life, and he believes his photographs document the lived realities of a community that doesn’t make it to films or stories. “I generally enjoy taking pictures of the people and their unique fashion while they go about their daily chores—from women selling fish to actors dressing up for jatra (folk theatre) festivals.” He has spent all of his forty-two years in his hometown. “I have never moved out. So in most of my work, my connection with the land is very evident”. A commerce graduate, he did not take up photography until he was thirty-two.

Without much guidance in the field, Khambe decided to work odd jobs in computer repair in his village until he stumbled upon a camera. “Photography brings me a lot of joy now. I am proudly a full-time photographer and that is what I want to do for the rest of my life—to preserve Sindhudurg in a way,” Khambe tells Vogue India.

Without boundaries around them, these tense discussions can take over and define the relationship, Manes says. And they can also cause partners to fall into a dicey pattern where one person feels responsible for keeping the couple on task, while the other constantly feels nagged, leading to feelings of blame, anger, defensiveness, and even resentment. “It’s a really bad dynamic to get into,” Manes says.

Plus, when you bring up relationship concerns or life logistics on the fly, there’s a good chance you won’t effectively hear one another. “You can miss what each other’s saying because you’re not primed for attentive listening or you feel infringed upon—like, there you are trying to have your moment and someone is poking at you,” she adds. (Poor communication, as you’ve probably heard, is a research-backed relationship killer.)

With a meeting on the books, on the other hand, you know what you’re walking into and are more prepared mentally to have these potentially tough conversations. “It feels less stressful and more collaborative, and like you’re making decisions together about how to handle the corporate stuff that comes up from being a couple,” Manes says.

Overall, the couple’s check-in offers a safe space to address your issues and better understand one another. The end result: You’re able to talk about everyday struggles (like splitting chores or cooking at home more often as a team) and deeper stuff (like if you’ve been arguing way too much) more compassionately, and actually problem-solve. You’re inviting your partner in, as Manes puts it, and having these intentional moments of vulnerability and openness can build intimacy and trust in a relationship.

How to plan—and participate in—your couple’s meeting

Meet regularly and when you tend to be less stressed

Scheduling check-ins is the easy part: Pick a time and a day when you and your partner are free—block off 30 to 45 minutes on your calendar. Manes suggests nailing down a window when you both feel relaxed, is possible. When my husband and I first gave these meetings a go, we chose 4 p.m. on Tuesdays, which was very stupid on my part because I was still in the middle of my workday. I arrived tense and left on edge about finishing up my work. Now, we touch base at 6:30 p.m. during dinner. Depending on your needs, you can meet every week, every other week, or once a month—or copy us and begin with a weekly meeting and then, once you’re in a flow, scale back to biweekly.

Bring up anything that’s been affecting your relationship

As for what to talk about: It can include anything from what’s coming up in the week ahead (who needs to get groceries or take the dog to the vet, for example, or what your social plans are), to long-term goals (do you want to move to a new city? Or try for a kid in a year?), to conflicts you want to resolve (is there a frustrating issue that keeps popping up, like your partner spends way too much time on their phone when you’re together?), to your intimate life (how’s it going in the bedroom?)—really anything that’s impacting your relationship.

It’s not only creams, treatments and good habits at the dinner table that help our collagen reserves. This protein is naturally present in our skin and is largely responsible for its firmness. And, according to Marie Hélène Lair, director of scientific communication at Clarins, “the native collagen reserve can decrease by 1% each year from the age of 20-25”. We already know how we can try to prevent this degradation from accelerating with various creams and good lifestyle habits.

But what is striking is the statement made by the pharmacist, who talks about how social relations and “good vibes” with family and friends also have an influence when it comes to slowing down this loss and preventing ageing.

“It all has to do with epigenetics. In short, 85% of the signs of ageing are directly linked to our lifestyle. By adopting a healthy lifestyle we can be the ‘pilots’ of our ageing, as only 15% is linked to genetic inheritance. The five pillars of this healthy lifestyle are: nutrition, optimism, stress management, sports practice and positive social relationships,” she explains.

“Avoid toxic people and spend time only with positive people,” she adds. In the end it’s a chain reaction—good social relationships reduce stress levels and that has a direct impact on collagen reserves and skin firmness because stress is an aggression that makes our cells not work properly.

The four pillars of good relationships (and skin longevity)

Precisely Dr. Olivier Courtin-Clarins (director of Clarins), in his book Guess My Age If You Can, devotes a chapter to the influence of social relationships as a catalyst for healthy ageing. In fact, he refers to a study that analysed the relationships of more than 300,000 men and women and found that people with fewer social ties were twice as likely to die prematurely compared to those who maintained these strong ties. Hence, the expert talks about his four basic principles for having positive social relationships:

• Acknowledgement and gratitude toward others. “It has a ripple effect that also benefits us.”
• Dialogue. “We all need to feel that we can express our thoughts and feelings and that we are going to be heard.”
• Trust in others because distrust “drives stress, uneasiness and mutual distrust,” she says.
• Support: “It’s not possible to have a quality relationship without minimal support.”

Other habits that help

Clearly, in addition to emotional connection, skin firmness is directly impacted by lifestyle. “Excessive smoking, alcohol, junk food, stress, sun rays and even an improper skin care routine can change the components of the skin responsible for skin’s firmness. Skin fibres (collagen and elastin) can be damaged by oxidation linked to environmental and daily aggressions,” says Marie Hélène Lair.

She also insists on the benefits of the Mediterranean diet—an active life—”Move, move, move whenever possible, use the car less, walk, climb stairs,” she says, and get enough sleep.

This article first appeared on Vogue Spain.

Also read:

I drank collagen for a month, and this is what it did to my skin

Do collagen supplements actually work? The experts tell us

5 ways to boost your skin’s collagen