Bisabolol is the ultra-soothing ingredient to have on your radar

Bisabolol might not roll off the tongue, but it’s one of the few skincare ingredients worth learning to pronounce. A chamomile-derived ingredient popping up in make-up, skincare and scalp care, bisabolol has quietly climbed the trend charts. According to Google, global searches for its benefits are up 100 per cent over the last 12 months, with more and more of us looking into the clever ingredient.

What is bisabolol?

“It’s a soothing, anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from chamomile,” board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr Idriss Skincare, Dr Shereene Idriss explains. While bisabolol is not the same as chamomile, it is extracted from the chamomile plant as well as Candeia trees. In its raw state, bisabolol is colourless with an oily viscosity.

Is bisabolol anti-inflammatory?

Yes, but that’s not all. “Bisabolol has anti-inflammatory, soothing and antioxidant properties,” says Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of Self London. “When applied topically, it can calm irritation, reduce redness and enhance skin repair by supporting the healing process of minor wounds or inflamed areas.” Dr Mahto notes that this is what makes it such a star ingredient when formulating products suitable for sensitive and reactive skin types. “Chronic conditions characterised by inflammation and irritation, like rosacea and eczema, may find it particularly helpful as it can help soothe persistent redness and alleviate discomfort, all while promoting skin barrier repair.”

Is bisabolol good for acne-prone skin?

Because bisabolol is also an anti-microbial (meaning it curbs the proliferation of bacteria on the skin), it can be hugely beneficial for people with acne-prone skin. “It discourages bacterial overgrowth but reduces redness and calms inflamed skin,” says Dr Mahto.

One of the reasons that you rarely see it as a standalone ingredient (unlike hyaluronic or ascorbic acids) is that bisabolol works brilliantly in tandem with other actives. “In anti-acne products, combining bisabolol with things like salicylic acid (pore unclogging) or benzoyl peroxide (bacteria busting) can help to reduce the irritation often associated with these treatments,” she explains.

Are there any drawbacks to using bisabolol on the skin?

As with everything in skincare (and life), what works for some might not work for others. Bisabolol is no different, although the chances of an adverse reaction are admittedly rare. “Some individuals may experience sensitivity to bisabolol, particularly if derived from chamomile, which can cause reactions in those with ragweed allergies,” cautions Dr Mahto.

Is bisabolol good for the scalp?

One of the skincare world’s favourite adages is that the scalp is an extension of the face, in the same way that the neck and décolleté are, and bisabolol can be a powerful soothing ingredient to be used up top, too. “On the scalp, bisabolol can help alleviate itchiness, tightness and discomfort, making it good for sensitive but also dry scalps,” Anabel Kingsley, consultant trichologist and Philip Kingsley brand president, details. “Because it’s an emollient (meaning it has soothing, moisturising properties), it helps to soften, smooth and hydrate the skin.”

This article first appeared on Vogue.co.uk