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Retinol vs retinoid–what to start and when, according to experts

In your 30s and 40s, you can move on to higher concentrations or stronger actives. But the rule remains the same: start low, go slow. And if your skin starts flaking, burning, or feeling raw? That’s your cue to pause and reassess.

What concentration should beginners use?

In India, common concentrations range from 0.25% to 0.5%. These may sound negligible, but they’re more than enough to trigger change in the skin, especially for first-time users.

“If you jump straight to a 1% formula, you risk compromising your skin barrier,” says Dr Mour. “Instead, start with a lower dose two to three times a week and gradually increase frequency as your skin adjusts.”

Sandwiching it between layers of moisturiser or layering with hyaluronic acid or peptides can help reduce side effects like dryness or flaking. But the myth that ‘stronger means better’ doesn’t hold here—skin improvement is a slow burn, not a sprint.

What not to mix with retinol

Combining it with exfoliating acids (AHAs, BHAs), vitamin C, or other actives can cause irritation. Instead, pair it with barrier-repairing ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide, and humectants like hyaluronic acid.

Sun protection will be your skin’s best friend if you start using retinol. Retinol can make your skin more susceptible to sun damage and burns, so daily use is recommended by all experts. Without SPF in your arsenal, you will end up undoing any good that retinol has caused and can even lead to graver skin concerns.

So, who shouldn’t be using it?

If you’re pregnant, breastfeeding, or dealing with certain forms of pigmentation like melasma, retinol may not be your best bet. “It’s important to personalise your skincare, especially when it comes to actives,” says Dr Gujjar. “Just because a product works for someone else doesn’t mean it’ll suit your skin type or history.”

And yes, Gen Z: starting retinol at 18 is unnecessary. Your skin is likely still producing collagen at full tilt. Give it time.

Before you start

  • Consult a dermatologist before starting any retinoid. It’s not just a disclaimer, it’s genuinely useful.
  • Start with a low concentration, use it sparingly at first, and watch how your skin responds.
  • Never skip moisturiser and sunscreen. These are your insurance policy.
  • Don’t mix retinol with exfoliants or strong actives unless prescribed.
  • Be patient—visible results can take weeks, sometimes months.

The final word

Retinol is one of the most well-researched ingredients in skincare. When used correctly, it can transform texture, tone, and resilience. But it’s not a miracle fix, and it works best when introduced thoughtfully. “A consistent routine, a balanced diet, and good sleep all matter just as much,” says Dr Mour.


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From Prada to Dior—these are the vintage heels you’ll want in your closet

Shopping vintage is second-nature to many of us these days. It makes sense: not only is it possible to track down rare fashion treasures—like vintage heels—that none of your friends have, you can also buy them at a fraction of the original price.

But while archival It-bags have reached the mainstream, vintage shoes is one category that’s still often overlooked. That’s likely down to an element of the ick factor and concern over wear and tear – although, of course, there are countless shoe restoration services out there.

Luckily, that sentiment is beginning to change – thanks to the likes of Bella Hadid, who was spotted at Cannes last year wearing a pair of highly sought-after pink Prada kitten heels. Meanwhile, Vestiaire Collective reports that searches for vintage heels have gone up 37 per cent year on year, with Dior, Gucci and Prada being the three most popular brands.

Below, see the best vintage heels to invest in now.

Prada kitten heels

There’s no shortage of vintage Prada shoes to choose from (see the recently reissued platform brogues from spring/summer 2011), but we’ve set our alerts for the suede eyelet kitten heels from the early Noughties, as previously worn by Hadid. Also on our wishlist? The buckle kitten heels, also from the Aughts.

Vintage Black Suede Cut-Out Heels

Vintage Pink Suede Pointed Kitten Heels

Gucci monogram slingbacks

While we have some time to wait before the arrival of Demna’s Gucci, the designer’s collaboration with Alessandro Michele for the “Hacker Project” back in 2021 may hold some clues of what to expect. It’s why we think the Gucci monogram may return in a big way in future seasons – making these vintage slingbacks a worthwhile investment.

£242

Vestiaire Collective

Dior logo heels

In a similar vein, it seems that logomania is also on its way back at Dior – with Maria Grazia Chiuri bringing back the brand’s famous J’Adore Dior T-shirt for autumn/winter 2025. Go the whole hog and wear yours with a branded buckle heel, also originating in the Noughties.

£690

Vestiaire Collective

£259

Vestiaire Collective

Céline ballerina heels

It’s no secret that anything by Phoebe Philo is highly coveted on the vintage market – and these ballerina heels from her spring/summer 2015 collection for Céline are no different. Already owned by at least one Vogue editor, the hybrid style feels just as relevant 10 years later.

Vivienne Westwood Ghillie platforms

Despite being the least practical item on this list, any vintage collector worth their salt will have Vivienne Westwood’s Ghillie platforms on their wishlist (or in their archive). The towering shoes were famously worn by Naomi Campbell when she tripped on the runway during the brand’s autumn/winter 1993 show. Not for the faint hearted.

Elevated Ghillie Platform

Black Leather Ghillie Elevated Heels

This story first appeared in British Vogue.

Also read:

Are sneaker heels the new power shoe for Gen Z?

7 stylish heels to wear with a white skirt in spring summer 2025

The flared heel is the retro footwear trend to know in 2025


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Ananya Panday roots for quiet luxury in a red Kshitij Jalori sari

Earlier this month, the sari had its fashion moment when Ananya Panday took it from traditional to hip with a playful twirl—reason enough for fashion’s most forward-thinking dressers to happily own the drape. In a scarlet red silk sari by Kshitij Jalori, the actor, who will headline
Kesari Chapter 2: The Untold Story of Jallianwala Bagh at the theatres this weekend, has gently tapped into the growing appeal of less-is-more.

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The silhouette stayed sleek and powerful as Panday moved away from the rut of heavily embellished drapes to make a case for modern simplicity in a delicately ornamental red silk sari. Interestingly, it was the sheer richness of the fabric — not its design — that did all the talking. The Call Me Bae protagonist amped up the glam with a sleeveless, high-necked blouse that imbued a sculptural edge to the otherwise simple ensemble.

Typically, the act of paring down an attire can stir the temptation to go no-holds-barred on accessories. Panday, though, admirably stuck to her brief. Nothing screamed for attention —  not the stud earrings with a subtle rose indent by Tallin Jewelry, nor her soft makeup, or her clean hairdo. Even the micro bindi was on point.

It’s not the first time that the actor has showed us how she can rock the Indian look just as confidently as she does head-turning swimwear (much like her career, where she is experimenting in more ways than one with each new role). Some weeks prior, she had whipped up a social media storm when she showed up on the gram in a sky-blue custom made sari by Torani. Reminiscent of a breezy day by the beach, the bright blue sari with bold orange-yellow marigold prints made for a spunky rendition of deeply heritage elements — especially the strappy blouse with a heavily tasseled tie at the back.




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5 surprising signs you’re over-exercising, according to experts

Hormonally, this can be due to increased cortisol levels. “Cortisol is the stress hormone that initiates the fight-or-flight response,” explains Kocsis. “Repeated high-intensity workouts or prolonged exercise increase the body’s production of cortisol. Persistently high cortisol hinders the thyroid’s workings, reducing levels of T3 and paving the way to stubborn weight gain, thinning hair, and brain fog,” he says.

Disrupted sleep

Exercise can help you sleep. Too much, though, and you may find it has the opposite effect. “You might notice that your sleep takes a hit, and you will either struggle to fall asleep or wake up a lot during the night, which can be linked to elevated stress hormones like cortisol staying too high for too long,” says Dr Alafifi.

“Excessive cortisol has a detrimental impact on sleep hygiene,” Kocsis concurs. “The stress hormone will ensure that a person takes longer to fall asleep, wakes up frequently throughout the night, and decreases the amount of REM sleep obtained. As a result, the body will not be able to recover from any exercise,” he says.

Irregular or absent periods

If your periods are all over the place, excess exercise could be responsible. “If women are training in excess, hold low body fat, and in a calorie deficit, the hypothalamic-pituitary-gonadal (HPG) axis (a crucial part of the endocrine system that regulates reproduction and sexual development) is hindered,” says Kocsis. “As a result, a person may experience irregular or even absent periods. This is often referred to as exercise-induced amenorrhea,” he explains.

“Missing periods is a major red flag,” agrees Dr Alafifi. “This is your body’s way of telling you that it is under too much stress and it doesn’t have enough energy to support non-essential functions like reproduction,” she adds.

Lower sex drive, fatigue and depression

Your mood is one of the first things that can be sent out of whack when your body isn’t getting the rest it needs. “The most common early signs of over-exercising are constant fatigue, cramping, mood swings (feeling more irritable or emotionally low) and decreased immunity even after rest days,” says Dr Alafifi.

Once again, your hormones play a role. “Testosterone is vital for sexual health, mood, energy, and overall health for both men and women,” says Kocsis. “Overtraining potentially reduces the production of testosterone, seeing a person experience lower libido, muscle wasting, extreme fatigue, and depression,” he explains.

Increased illness or injuries

In light of all the other signs, it probably won’t surprise you that if you’re run-down from over-exercising, you’re more likely to be at risk of illness and injury, too. “Other symptoms can also include getting sick more often and picking up injuries like stress fractures or joint pain,” confirms Dr Alafifi.


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Horoscope Today: April 17, 2025

Cosmic tip: Pour into someone else’s cup but remember to also keep yours full.

When you can’t see the brighter side of things, take a step back, snooze, meditate or simply choose to not engage in anything that you have been working on in your recent times. While yes, your life may have taken a lot away from you, the cosmos is also giving you something that you can cherish, nurture and build. Shake off that feeling of listlessness and self-absorption – your life is not as bad as it may seem, and you, my dear, have several options on the table that you cannot yet see.

Cosmic tip: Look up towards the sun, not the grey clouds.

Rushing through life may have never been your thing, Libra and as you decide to move through this phase feeling disillusioned and fearful about your future, your guides step in to let you know that as this cycle comes to a close it brings with it more stability, structure and organisation in your life. For now you have evolved enough to shed this phase, and as you continue to move further you will find new meaning and purpose that fills your heart with a fire that you yearn for.

Cosmic tip: Don’t let your intuition drown in the seas of your fears.

Your love and personal life may be blooming, even feeling more supportive than before and here you are, Scorpio, being asked to hold a little more faith in yourself and a little less fear in the uncertainty of life. Your strengths and your boldly strong visions have brought you where you are currently. As you enter this time where the Universe says, “Your wish is my command” ensure you are daring to dream your biggest dreams and jump into the pools of infinite possibilities knowing that you will swim through to the other side effortlessly and magnanimously.

Cosmic tip: Put your willpower where your heart is and you will taste success.

When the Universe takes away 10 things, it also sends one new thing your way to toy around with and explore to it’s fullest potential. You may be at a point zero in your life, Sag. But this is also that point in time where you get to ask yourself some deeply potent questions – what sparks you off, what drives you forward and what would you risk everything for (not that you must risk everything, but still). You may be a tiny seed, but you hold immense potential – be it within your personal, professional or any other aspects of life. Keep planting seeds and know that it will all work in your highest good.


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Capricorn Horoscope Today: April 17, 2025

When your mind is clear you can make even water levitate – like your emotions and inner well being. Capricorn, a flash of validation is superb, but don’t you get so hooked onto it that your every move is carefully crafted around it. Lay your foot down, guard what is yours while also picking battles that feel worth the energy, time and effort. It is important for you to defend your beliefs – just know exactly what you are choosing to defend and why. Ask your angels to guide and protect your every move and continue to stand tall.

Cosmic tip: You walked away from the circus for a reason, so now just be mindful of not walking right into it again.


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A 3,000-year-old martial art from Kerala taught me how to stop fighting myself

While Kalari has a wide range of weapons, from the dagger to the spear, it never feels violent. One of the first lessons you learn is that it’s a practice rooted in self-defence, not aggression. Strength has its responsibilities, and Kalari isn’t about power trips. In fact, a beginner’s journey starts with the Vandana Chuvadu, a step that salutes the opponent. It’s a gesture of respect, a silent request to avoid a fight.

Here’s a mouthful of sageness, I think. Can I be the bigger person? Can I still see the people who hurt me as human, as flawed, as layered as anyone else? As Michaela Coel once said in an interview, ‘See the brother in the enemy’?

And so, Kalari begins to alter me. I become more forgiving, more compassionate. And yet, I’m almost mule-headed when it comes to defending myself—brazen, unflinching and armed to the teeth when I stand up for myself. I am on my own team. “Our bodies store emotions in different ways,” my therapist explains during one of our sessions. “Expressing them through art forms can make it easier to let them out and handle those emotions better, especially when talking feels too much.”

Of course, there are days when I’m not in love with Kalari. Days when my body aches so loud, I just want to be oiled like a baby and left out in the sun. Days when I grumble about waking up at 6am, wondering why I can’t just stay in bed longer and doom-scroll. Days when I’m not ready to chase my urumi-wielding warrior princess fairytale, because honestly, I’d rather be a sloth stretched out on the couch, eating pazham pori (banana fritters) and nerding out over a good book. After all, some would say Kalari isn’t even relevant anymore. And in a way, they have a point. It has evolved from a combat discipline into a performance art, something to be showcased on stage, at cultural festivals or competitive games. For those who measure value in money or tangible outcomes, Kalari may seem quite useless.

But at the core of this martial art from Kerala lies ancient wisdom that is quiet, steady and irreplaceable. When I pick up my long staff to fight, I’m also learning how to stay calm under pressure. I realise that the real weapon is not what I hold in my hands, it’s me. The composed mind, the deadly stare, the unwavering focus, the knowledge of marma points that could still anyone—these are mine to carry, mine to alchemise.


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First Look: Inside Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla’s maximalist outpost at Jio World Plaza, Mumbai

Patola patterns in gold leafing dance on the walls of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla’s latest store in Jio World Plaza, Mumbai, that holds archival pieces from 37 years ago, along with newer creations. “The store has a surreal peacock display handcrafted in ‘Shola’ that also features gota flowers blooming among the bird’s feathers,” say Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla in an exclusive conversation with Vogue India ahead of their opening tonight.

Every one of their brick-and-mortar stores echo a different palette, revealing multiple stories and creating a mood board within the walls. In Mumbai, they embody nostalgia. “We have used a mix of embossing, quilting, carving and cutting techniques done by hand to make the store feel like a museum. Even the walls feature handcrafted aabla work and the chairs in our meeting room are made with hand-printed Ajrak,” add Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla.

After collaborating for 39 years, if you think creative differences aren’t common, think again. “There’s a saying that if two people agree on everything, one of them is not needed. Abu and I are as different as chalk and cheese, but together, we debate and dream. Disagreement is a natural part of the process…What matters is that in the end, we’re both gratified by what we have co-created.”

Ahead, read excerpts from their conversation with Vogue.

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Inside the Mumbai store

S.Thiru


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Sara Ali Khan packed puffers and pops of colour for the Swiss slopes

In Vogue India’s 2023 cover story, Sara Ali Khan confessed to being an unapologetic non-conformist: “Whether it’s going to the airport with freshly washed hair and not doing my hair and make-up unless necessary, I really am who I am.” While her relationship with fashion keeps evolving, recently Khan shared how cold-weather dressing can be sassy and utilitarian all at once. Her latest Swiss outings seemed like a nod to her sunny demeanour and her quintessential no-makeup look.

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For a coffee date, the Love Aaj Kal actress paired a standout silver Moncler vest with a bright yellow co-ord set and a matching cap. For an adventurous, high-altitude ride, the actor wore a floral, multicoloured René Derhy puffer jacket, completing the outfit with a black leather Versace fringe purse and a baby pink scarf. And a saffron bikini accompanied her hot tub day.

The restrained choice of accessories—ironically—turned out to be the highlight of her sartorial collage. Khan went for the off-duty look with an understated shawl and a Louis Vuitton tote bag. Her outfit details and makeup were leashed to a bare minimum—classic stud earrings, a colourful trucker hat, a pair of cat-eye sunglasses. What we couldn’t miss: the simple white sneakers that seemed to go along with most of her holiday outfits. Like the bestie no girl can do without.

From Vogue‘s fashion desk:

“Lose the Moncler-on-Moncler and anchor the silver puffer with an all-black base: thermal leggings, sleek turtleneck, stompy boots. Add a balaclava or oversized hood for edge, and skip the sunnies for a matte goggle frame. Break the René Derhy floral puffer by pairing it with wide-leg cargo trousers in something muted, like slate grey. Pull hair into a sleek braid and add technical gloves. The neon Faith Connexion co-ord gets deconstructed: wear the highlighter-yellow pants with a camel-toned shearling jacket and muted sneakers. Keep one punchy accessory: a coloured cap or sock, but not both,” says Vogue India’s Fashion Associate, Manglien Gangte.

Also read:

Sara Ali Khan: “I don’t have a single pair of designer clothing in my wardrobe”

Sara Ali Khan’s jewellery box includes jadau sets and statement rings

LEE X Suneet Varma’s collaboration featuring Sara Ali Khan merges classic denim with Indian couture




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What our speed-watching at 1.5x habit says about us

It’s a subtle erosion. Not dramatic. Not dystopian. Just a slow, quiet recalibration of how we engage—with stories, with each other, and with ourselves.

But there’s another perspective worth holding. Priyanka Varma, psychologist and founder of The Thought Co., openly speed-watches podcasts and doesn’t think the habit is inherently harmful. “Time is our most valuable real estate. It’s not necessarily bad—it depends on how and why we’re doing it,” she says.

She suggests that speed-watching isn’t always a reflex to escape. It can be strategic. “Everybody is starting to value their time a lot more and wanting to do more with their time. Because, again, twenty-four hours in a day—I know I need to sleep, I know I need to work, I need to do one hour in the gym… Leave us with how much time to actually learn?”

And the intention behind it is what really matters. “It’s how you’re consuming it and why. If you’re doing it in a way that helps you lead a more balanced life, it’s not bad.”

Still, the pattern is hard to ignore. A growing number of us now consume stories like we consume emails—quickly, half-attentively, while doing something else. The impulse to optimise every pocket of our time can flatten the very experiences that once grounded us.

“We learn to equate our worth with how much we do, not how we feel,” says Manjani. That rush to be productive—even in leisure—often leaves us with a joyless kind of completion. “When we rush or skip through stories,” she adds, “it allows us to know what happened in a story, but not to feel it.”

The result is a kind of emotional malnourishment. We lose the breath between moments. The slow build of intimacy. The resonance that only comes when we let something linger.

And that impatience isn’t limited to screens. It’s leaking into our conversations, our relationships and our ability to stay with discomfort. The pause feels awkward. I get awkward. Silence, once a pleasant companion, is slowly becoming something to fill, not sit with.

But if speed is the norm, slowness is starting to feel radical. All three experts note a shift—clients seeking depth, people turning back toward the long, the quiet, the emotionally resonant. The platforms may be speeding up, but parts of us are asking to slow down.


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