Gucci’s 2025 high jewellery unveils a rainbow of precious stones

When Marilyn Monroe professed that diamonds were a girl’s best friend, she hadn’t seen a Paraiba tourmaline. One of the rarest gemstones in the world (gemstone experts estimate that for every Paraiba tourmaline mined, nearly 10,000 diamonds are found), its unique greenish, bluish, turquoise hue makes it sparkle even in the faintest light. Spotting one is unlikely, unless, of course, you’re looking at Gucci’s high jewellery collections in 2025.

This year, Gucci brings new creations featuring two of its iconic motifs as well as an update to Labirinti Gucci—the brand’s 2024 high jewellery chapter inspired by the geometric beauty of an Italian garden. Think winding pathways, symmetric archways and flowers in full bloom translated into deep blue tanzanites, vivid green tsavorites and soft pink sapphires.

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One standout design is a close-fitting necklace that wraps around the neck in lines of diamonds, interrupted by a burst of blue—a round-cut 24.75-carat tanzanite and a cushion-cut 5.94-carat Paraiba tourmaline, like stumbling upon a fountain in the middle of a maze. Another highlight is a ring featuring a 6.02-carat Brazilian aquamarine framed by Paraiba tourmalines and pear-shaped diamonds, its setting reminiscent of delicate rose petals.

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Gucci also reimagines one of its most popular emblems: the Horsebit. The double-ring and bar design, originally from the equestrian world, was co-opted by the house in the 1950s and has since become synonymous with the brand’s design language. Here, it comes alive with a technicolour twist. In an asymmetric collar necklace, lines of diamonds encircle the neck, with a 3.07-carat ruby, set amidst round tsavorites in electric green, creating a Horsebit centrepiece.

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Next, the Marina Chain from the 1960s. Inspired by maritime codes and nautical chains, this motif now shimmers in shades of blue, orange, pink and yellow. A Marina Chain necklace features a gradient with hundreds of rubies, tsavorites and sapphires; the adjoining links shine with diamond pavé settings. A pair of rose-gold earrings echo the chain’s silhouette with pink sapphires and diamonds, each framing a 2.73-carat pink spinel centrepiece.

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If you could capture a rainbow and turn it into high jewellery, this might be the result. For Gucci, it’s proof that beauty isn’t just found in the white sparkle of diamonds, but also in every shade of the spectrum.