When I first heard whispers about polka dots making a comeback, I was transported back to 2020 – much of which I spent bingeing season four of The Crown and getting lost in internet rankings of “Princess Diana’s Most Iconic ’80s Looks”, as Emma Corrin’s on-screen wardrobe seared itself into my Covid-addled brain.
Tim Graham/Getty Images
Tim Graham/Getty Images
Two years on from Gwyneth Paltrow’s legendary ski trial wardrobe, consumers are increasingly rejecting quiet luxury in favour of something louder and more decadent. As one friend told me recently: “It’s time to reject the oppressive nature of chic and embrace the chaotic hedonism of glam.” We are, it seems, entering the age of “boom boom” – a term coined by Sean Monahan to describe the return of unapologetic ’80s excess, a mood dripping in opulence and with a nihilistic slant. The fur-laden, power-shouldered aesthetic sits somewhere between American Psycho (minus the murders) and Lady Gaga’s “Beautiful, Dirty, Rich” video. The polka dot fits neatly into this new landscape, having appeared on runways everywhere from Fendi and Moschino to Isabel Marant.
In London, Conner Ives showed sheer slip dresses appliquéd with large tonal spots, while Bora Aksu leaned into the romance of it all via dotty dresses in layered tulle. Over at Moschino things were more in your face – think Mickey Mouse-inspired polka dot blazers and deconstructed slips – while the sheer polka dot skirt from Instagram fave Susa Musa has influencers in a chokehold. On the celebrity front, Dua Lipa has swiftly embraced the trend: she was recently spotted in a strapless pink Valentino spring/summer 2025 number that would have fit right in on a Chelsea dancefloor circa 1981.
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