I attended a fascinating festival in Bhutan and understood why it is one of the happiest countries in the world

My driver, Tshering Dorji

The true spirit of Bhutan reveals itself not just in the Black-Necked Crane Festival, but in the everyday life of its citizens too. I quickly develop an affinity for Suja, the butter tea which will soon become my companion through chilly mornings and long afternoons, and Ema Datshi, the beloved chilli-cheese dish that pairs perfectly with rice. Each meal reinforces the importance of connection to both the local ecology as well as to each other.

As I travel from valley to valley, the seamless blend of adventure and tradition deepens my connection to Bhutan. My guide, who happens to be a trained archer, insists that I try it at least once. Archery, Bhutan’s national sport, is not just a pastime but an expression of community spirit, and almost every village has a practising field. He takes me to a local match and what strikes me most is the sense of friendly competition, the verbal battles that unfold in a chorus of cheers and chants, and the intense focus of the players. It is a beautiful reflection of Bhutan’s communal culture, where every victory or defeat is shared.