Protein for hair: How to repair damage without overdoing it

pWhen our hair is in desperate need of some TLC, our natural instinct is to reach for the deepest and most nourishing treatment, soak our strands in it, say a quick prayer to the beauty gods and wait until the dry ends and brittleness start to fade away. That’s where protein for hair comes in: strengthening, repairing and patching up weak spots.

Because our hair is mostly made of keratin (a type of protein), dermatologists say protein for hair helps reinforce its structure and resilience. As board-certified dermatologist Hope Mitchell, MD, explains, protein is “the building block of hair.”

Marisa Garshick, MD, board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology, agrees and says that its main purpose for our haircare needs is to repair and reduce hair breakage. It can also create a barrier around each strand to help retain moisture and protect it from damage you might get from heat styling, colour treatment or wearing protective styles, she says. “Think of it as patching up weak spots,” adds Dr Mitchell. “Strengthening the cuticle and giving your hair more resilience.”

But before you stock up on every protein-based shampoo and mask, there are a couple of things to consider. With protein for hair, it’s a delicate balance of finding the right products that won’t cause more harm than good—and figuring out whether you even need it in the first place.

Is it safe?

“Yes, protein is generally safe for all hair types,” says Dr Mitchell. “But the need varies.” She explains that those with fine, limp, or chemically treated hair benefit from protein the most because those hair types tend to lose strength and structure quickly. She adds that those with curly, coily hair have naturally more fragile strands and will also benefit from protein as long as you find the right balance between it and moisture. If your hair is already pretty healthy and strong, you might not need much—or any—of it.

The downsides

There is such a thing as too much protein for hair. “Protein overload is real,” says hairstylist Devin Graciano. “Hair needs balance. Too much protein and not enough moisture reduces elasticity, making hair feel dry, tangly and dull. Past that, it becomes brittle and breaks easily.”

It’s pretty easy to tell if your hair is sensitive to protein. Dr Garshick says that the signs include hair feeling rough, stiff, or straw-like, or if your hair snaps off easily (especially if your hair was soft and healthy before). Dr Mitchell agrees and adds that if you’ve already got strong, healthy hair that doesn’t break easily, you may not need extra protein.

How to use protein, safely

Dr Mitchell recommends using protein-based products and treatments according to your needs. If your hair is colour-treated, relaxed, or frequently styled with heat, for example, she says you’ll need to look for something that you can use weekly or bi-weekly. Healthier hair can go longer between protein treatments and she says that you can get away with using a protein product once a month (or less). And regardless of how often you use protein for your hair, she says to follow up with a moisturising conditioner or mask to keep the moisture balance just right.