How to apply oil to hair, according to experts

For most of us, a hair oil massage is more than just a routine. It’s a tradition passed down through generations. But are we doing it the right way? Even if you’ve been oiling your hair for years, it’s worth revisiting the best techniques to make the most of this practice.

We spoke to Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, medical director of ISAAC Luxe and a firm believer in the power of a good hot oil treatment, to break it down.

“A scalp massage helps boost blood circulation, which can lead to hair growth and also help you relax. However, a vigorous champi can break a lot of hair during and after the oil massage,” she warns. “Be gentle—use your fingertips to massage the oil into your scalp and roots.”

If you’ve wondered how to apply oil to hair with the least damage, Dr Gupta suggests using circular motions to improve circulation. Placing your hands in an L-shape and applying gentle pressure works well, but it’s just as important to avoid tangling your hair in the process. Excess friction can lead to breakage or even pull hair from the follicle.

By tweaking your technique, you can ensure your hair oiling ritual is as effective—and damage-free—as possible.

Can you apply oil to damp hair?

“You can oil when your hair is damp or dry, but your hair and scalp have to be clean, or the oil won’t have a chance to be absorbed,” says Dr Gupta. For heavier oils like coconut oil, applying it on dry hair is best, as the larger molecules may not penetrate the shaft of wet hair as well can dry hair. Another way to improve penetration? Use warm oil, as the liquefied formula can sink in better. “Heat in the form of a hot towel or warm hair oil equals increased chances of absorption. You can warm up some oil in a bowl and apply it or use a hot towel on your hair after application,” she confirms.

How much oil is ideal?

When the question of “how to apply oil to hair” arises, one of the first things to take into consideration should be the amount of oil you’re using. The answer lies in the type of oil you are using, the purpose (a few drops as a serum or more as a mask) and the length of your hair. Apply a few pumps or one to three palmfuls of oil onto your scalp gently and use one to two pumps on your strands depending on density and hair texture, says Dr Gupta. Start at the scalp, and then “gently use your hands to apply oil to your mid-lengths and ends to give them much-needed moisture, especially if you colour or chemically treat your hair,” she says.

How long should you leave the oil on?

While some leave the oil in their hair overnight, usually one to two hours should suffice. “If you apply more oil than you need, thinking you need to coat every strand of your hair with oil, you will need the same amount of shampoo to get it off. This may lead to dryness, which is counterproductive. A little goes a long way,” advises the expert. She adds that a lot of women in India oil their hair daily and then plait or braid their hair, but she recommends sticking to it once or twice a week.