Janhvi Kapoor’s ivory anarkali featured an interplay of chikankari, kaamdani and zardozi embroideries

Janhvi Kapoor decked up in a custom ivory anarkali for the screening of the re-release of Umrao Jaan recently. Her custom look, from House of Kotwara, was a tribute to Rekha’s unforgettable portrayal of the graceful, poetic courtesan that remains one of Indian cinema’s most iconic performances.

Her classic anarkali featured several kalis bearing a unique blend of crafts with a sensual sweetheart neckline and a corset-esque bodice. “The idea was to capture her unique blend of sensuality, grace and vulnerability…much like the character Umrao. We have incorporated a plethora of crafts on this piece, from chikankari and kaamdani, to zardozi and of course, the signature pearls that were added into the look. Those who have watched the movie will know that Umrao and her pearls go hand-in-hand,” reveals Sama Ali behind House of Kotwara.

The New Delhi-based label was founded by Muzaffar Ali in 1999, who is also the director of the 1981 musical drama movie.

The pale gold archival dupatta that rounded off her anarkali has a story of its own. “This archival dupatta is a fun callback to enthusiasts of vintage style. It was part of the showstopper look for our show at Lakmē Fashion Week 2018. Sushmita Sen made the perfect muse for this dupatta, which also features kaamdani work with a zardozi border and fareesha aari embroidery,” adds Ali.

As for jewellery, she went with a pair of bespoke gold and crimson meenakari jhumkas with kaan phool. “The pair is intricately handcrafted with antique polki, Basra pearls and the lingering romance of the Mughal zenana. A tribute to Rekha ji’s legacy,” shares Susham Singla, director, Jagdish Jewellers, Chandigarh. She wore her hair in soft waves and added au naturel makeup in romantic rose tones that mirrored the understated elegance of her anarkali.

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First Look: Janhvi Kapoor wore a backless YSL dress from the Rive Gauche 1975 collection